Hay-on-Wye, or Y Gelli Gandryll in Welsh, is one of the most distinctive small towns in Britain, world famous as the “Town of Books” thanks to its dozens of second-hand bookshops and its renowned literary festival. Straddling the border between England and Wales on the banks of the River Wye, with the dramatic ridges of the Black Mountains rising just to the south, Hay combines genuine literary charm with an outstanding location for walking, making it one of the very best centre-based holiday bases in the whole of Wales.
Few towns of its size can claim quite such a wealth of walking on the doorstep. Both the Offa’s Dyke Path and the Wye Valley Walk, two of Britain’s best-loved long-distance trails, pass directly through Hay, meeting almost at the town’s centre, while the Brecon Beacons National Park begins just a short walk from the bookshops themselves. This makes Hay a genuine crossroads for walkers, equally well placed for a gentle riverside stroll or a serious day on the mountains, all without needing to move accommodation.
To the south, the Black Mountains dominate the skyline, their long red sandstone ridges offering some of the finest high-level walking in South Wales. The climb up Hay Bluff, reached via the Offa’s Dyke Path, is a local classic, a steep but well-marked ascent rewarded with sweeping views across Herefordshire and the Wye Valley. Beyond it, the Gospel Pass road, the highest in Wales, winds through the dramatic Ewyas Valley towards the atmospheric ruins of Llanthony Priory, opening up access to the wilder, quieter reaches of the Hatterrall Ridge for those wanting to venture further.
The River Wye itself offers a gentler side to walking around Hay, with a network of riverside paths leading from the town out to the popular beauty spot known as the Warren, a peaceful stretch of riverbank perfect for a picnic or a paddle. Across the river, the largely undiscovered upland moorland of the Begwyns offers wild, open walking with far fewer visitors than the Black Mountains, a real hidden gem for those who enjoy a bit of solitude. Wildlife is abundant throughout the area, from kingfishers and otters along the river to the buzzards and, on the higher ground, occasional wild ponies that roam the Black Mountains.
What makes Hay such a rewarding base is this combination of contrasts, wild mountain ridges and gentle riverside paths, ancient drovers’ roads and a genuinely characterful market town to return to each evening. After a day on the hills, there are second-hand bookshops to browse, independent cafes to relax in, and a proper sense of place that few walking bases in Britain can match. It is a town built for lingering, and a wonderful one to explore on foot.
We are based right here in Hay-on-Wye, so we know this landscape as well as anyone, and our centre-based walking holiday draws on that local knowledge to put together a varied week of walking straight from the town. You will stay in comfortable accommodation in Hay itself, with a different walk each day taking in the Black Mountains, the Wye Valley and the quieter countryside nearby. We provide detailed route notes and mapping for every walk, along with recommendations on where to eat, drink and browse in between, and our team is always close at hand for advice or support during your stay.
Day 1: Arrive in Hay-on-Wye Settle into your accommodation in the heart of Hay-on-Wye, and spend the afternoon browsing the town’s famous bookshops before dinner at one of its many good pubs and cafes.
Day 2: Hay Bluff and Gospel Pass A classic Black Mountains day, climbing steeply via the Offa’s Dyke Path to the summit of Hay Bluff, with far-reaching views over Herefordshire and the Wye Valley, before an optional extension along the ridge towards Gospel Pass.
Day 3: The River Wye and the Warren A gentle riverside walk along the banks of the Wye to the Warren, a beautiful natural beauty spot, with plenty of time to relax by the water before looping back into town.
Day 4: Llanthony Priory and the Black Mountains Head deeper into the Black Mountains to explore the atmospheric ruins of Llanthony Priory, before climbing onto the quieter reaches of the Hatterrall Ridge for some genuinely wild upland walking.
Day 5: The Begwyns Cross into Radnorshire for a walk across the wild, open moorland of the Begwyns, one of the area’s best-kept secrets and a wonderfully peaceful contrast to the busier Black Mountains trails.
Day 6: Depart Enjoy a final morning exploring Hay-on-Wye’s bookshops and markets before making your way home.
(Itinerary shown as an example – walks and pacing can be adjusted to suit fitness levels and interests, and additional days can easily be added.)
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