Hay-on-Wye sits in a genuinely brilliant spot for a cycling holiday, right on the border between England and Wales, with the gentle, rolling lanes of Herefordshire to the north and the far more serious climbing of the Black Mountains to the south. Few towns of its size offer such a contrast within easy reach, from lazy pootles through half-timbered villages to one of the toughest, most celebrated road climbs in Britain, all launched from the same welcoming book town.
That climb is the Gospel Pass, the highest paved road in Wales, which winds its way up between the peaks of Hay Bluff and Twmpa on gradients that regularly touch 15 percent or more. It is a proper test of legs and lungs, often compared to a scaled-down Alpine col, but the reward is one of the finest panoramas in Wales, taking in the whole sweep of the Black Mountains, the Brecon Beacons beyond and the Wye Valley stretching away to the north. The long descent into the Vale of Ewyas afterwards, passing the atmospheric ruins of Llanthony Priory, is every bit as memorable as the climb itself.
For gentler riding, the quiet lanes north of Hay open up the so-called Black and White Villages of Herefordshire, a scattering of picture-postcard settlements built in the region’s distinctive timber-framed style. Routes here wind through Eardisley, Almeley and Kinnersley, crossing the River Wye at the historic wooden toll bridge at Whitney, with plenty of good pubs to break up the ride and the intriguing Neolithic burial chamber of Arthur’s Stone tucked away above the Golden Valley for those wanting a detour into deep history.
To the west, the lanes roll on into Radnorshire, climbing gently onto the open common land of the Begwyns before dropping down towards Painscastle and Erwood, a quieter, less-visited corner of the borderlands with its own understated charm. This is proper rolling countryside cycling, undulating rather than mountainous, and a lovely contrast to the drama of Gospel Pass on the other side of town. For those who prefer to leave the tarmac altogether, the forests and bridleways around Hay also offer excellent off-road riding, with routes ranging from gentle family-friendly loops to serious, all-day mountain bike epics.
Whichever direction you head, Hay’s location as a genuine crossroads, between England and Wales, mountain and valley, tarmac and trail, is what makes it such a rewarding base for a cycling holiday. And whatever kind of day you have had in the saddle, there are few better ways to finish it than with a well-earned pint and a browse of Hay’s famous bookshops.
We are based right here in Hay-on-Wye, so our centre-based cycling holiday draws on genuine local knowledge of the best routes in every direction. You will stay in comfortable accommodation in the town, with a different ride each day, mixing the gentle lanes of Herefordshire and Radnorshire with the bigger climbing of the Black Mountains for those who want it. We provide detailed route notes and mapping for each day, quality bikes are available to hire if you would rather not bring your own, and our team is always on hand for local advice, whether that is the best pub stop or the smartest way to tackle Gospel Pass.
Day 1: Arrive in Hay-on-Wye Settle into your accommodation in the heart of Hay-on-Wye, and spend the afternoon exploring the town’s bookshops and cafes before dinner.
Day 2: Gospel Pass and the Black Mountains The big day of the week, tackling the celebrated climb up Gospel Pass, the highest paved road in Wales, with spectacular views from the top before a long, scenic descent past Llanthony Priory into the Vale of Ewyas.
Day 3: The Black and White Villages A gentler day exploring the timber-framed villages of Herefordshire, crossing the historic toll bridge at Whitney and winding through Eardisley and Almeley on quiet country lanes, with a detour to Arthur’s Stone for those interested in ancient history.
Day 4: Radnorshire lanes and the Begwyns Head west onto the open common of the Begwyns before rolling down through Painscastle and Erwood, a quieter, undulating ride through some of the borderlands’ least-visited countryside.
Day 5: Wye Valley loop or off-road option A more relaxed day following the Wye Valley towards Glasbury and Talgarth, or, for those wanting a change from the tarmac, an off-road route through the forests and bridleways around Hay.
Day 6: Depart Enjoy a final morning in Hay-on-Wye before making your way home.
(Itinerary shown as an example – rides, distances and difficulty can be adjusted to suit fitness levels and cycling ability, and additional days can easily be added.)
