Few ruins in Wales occupy quite so beautiful, or quite so remote, a setting as Llanthony Priory. Tucked away in the Vale of Ewyas, a steep-sided, glaciated valley deep in the Black Mountains, this former Augustinian priory has been drawing visitors for the peace and beauty of its surroundings for the best part of a thousand years, and remains one of the most atmospheric spots in the whole of Bannau Brycheiniog National Park. A working pub and small hotel now occupy part of the ruins themselves, meaning walkers can sit with a well-earned pint among genuine twelfth-century stonework, arches open to the sky above them.
The priory’s origins date to around the year 1100, when, according to tradition, a Norman knight named William de Lacy stumbled upon the ruins of an old chapel while out hunting and, struck by the peace of the setting, chose to become a hermit there. A small Augustinian community soon grew up around him, and the substantial priory whose ruins survive today was built shortly afterwards. Its remoteness, however, proved to be both a blessing and a curse, the very isolation that made it such a peaceful retreat also left it vulnerable to Welsh raids and difficult to supply, and the community gradually declined in the centuries that followed, particularly after the Dissolution of the Monasteries.
The Vale of Ewyas itself is worth the visit alone. A classic U-shaped glacial valley, it is flanked on its eastern side by the long, high ridge of Hatterral Hill, along which runs both the Offa’s Dyke Path and the ancient boundary between England and Wales, and on its western side by the equally impressive Loxidge ridge, leading towards the summit of Twmpa. The tiny hamlet of Capel-y-ffin, little more than a scattering of buildings and a diminutive church, lies further up the valley, close to the foot of Gospel Pass, the highest paved road in Wales.
Walking opportunities from Llanthony are genuinely excellent, ranging from gentle valley strolls to serious full-day mountain circuits. The climb onto Hatterall Ridge rewards walkers with a classic aerial view back down onto the priory nestled in its glacial bowl below, along with sweeping panoramas across the Olchon Valley towards Hereford. To the west, the Loxidge Trail offers similarly spectacular views, while wild ponies and birds of prey are a regular sight on the open moorland above the valley. Nearby, the curiously leaning medieval church at Cwmyoy, said to be the most crooked church in Britain, adds a further point of interest for those exploring further afield.
Beyond its natural beauty, Llanthony has long attracted writers, artists and those simply seeking solitude, from the poet Walter Savage Landor, who briefly owned the estate in the nineteenth century, to the artistic community later established nearby at Capel-y-ffin. It is this rare combination, a genuinely spectacular mountain setting, a profoundly atmospheric ruin, and a real sense of having found somewhere quietly special, that makes Llanthony one of the most rewarding short walking breaks anywhere in Wales.
We offer Llanthony Priory as a single-centre walking holiday, with comfortable accommodation in or around the valley and a different circular walk each day exploring the Vale of Ewyas and the surrounding Black Mountains. As with our other self-guided walking holidays, there are no fixed departure dates, and we provide detailed route notes and mapping for each day, along with recommendations for the best spots to stop and enjoy the scenery. This short break combines particularly well with our Hay-on-Wye holidays, given the proximity of Gospel Pass, for those wanting to extend their stay in the Black Mountains.
Day 1: Arrive at Llanthony Settle into your accommodation and take some time to explore the priory ruins themselves before an evening drink in the atmospheric priory pub.
Day 2: Hatterall Ridge circular A classic Black Mountains day, climbing steeply onto Hatterall Ridge and the Offa’s Dyke Path, with spectacular views back down over the priory and across the Olchon Valley towards Hereford.
Day 3: Capel-y-ffin and the Loxidge Ridge Head up the valley to the tiny hamlet of Capel-y-ffin before climbing the western ridge for equally fine views, with the option to continue to the summit of Twmpa for those wanting a bigger day.
Day 4: Cwmyoy and the lower valley A gentler day exploring the lower reaches of the Vale of Ewyas, taking in the curiously crooked medieval church at Cwmyoy, said to be the most tilted in Britain.
Day 5: Depart Enjoy a final morning at Llanthony before making your way home.
(Itinerary shown as an example – walks and pacing can be adjusted to suit fitness levels and interests, and additional days can easily be added.)
